Monday, November 29, 2010

Stupendous Spelunking in Cuetzalan

With my work on the COP16 News Center looming ahead, I made sure to make the most of my last weekend of freedom. Grant, Nick and I left DF at the splendid hour of 11:58 p.m. and headed 5 hours north to Cuetzalan, an ancient city in the state of Puebla. The name comes from quetzal, a beautiful bird whose peacock-like feathers were prized by the Aztecs. According to my 12 year old tour guide, quetzales are now extinct, but only since the 1980s. Way to go, cultural patrimony.

When we arrived around 5:30 a.m. to the posada, we awoke a sleeping man at the reception, who let us into a room with two double beds. Being a princess, I naturally got one to myself, but Nick was a little nervous that Grant would get the wrong idea, so in the morning, we went downstairs and asked for a triple. We thought it would be obvious not to pay the full price on the double room, as we'd only slept in it for 3 hours. Wrong. We started bickering in Spanish with the lady at the front desk, who was like "hellz no," but fortunately Nick shifted approaches and asked gently if we couldn't reach a compromise. And it worked! Half price for the first night, and full price on a triple with ridiculously high ceilings and a bathroom with a shower head facing the toilet.

Later in the morning, we wandered around the tiny pueblo up steep streets and through a maze of market vendors. Then we hired a 12-year-old gentleman to lead us down the highway, through a small annex town and out to Las Brisas, a beautiful waterfall whose natural wonder is amplified by the michelada (beer with spices) carts.
After Grant threw rocks at a hole in the waterfall's rock wall for a good 15 minutes, and after Nick skipped rocks with our guide's 10-year-old brother, the five of us went up and around to a second waterfall. Once we headed back into town and tipped our escorts, we went to a well-regarded restaurant across the narrow street from our posada. I thought I picked a winner when I ordered crepes with mushrooms, but it turns out, they had a different kind of mushroom in mind. They were long, chewy, earth-tasting strips in a blanket of crepe batter. At least the beers were cheap!

On Sunday, we met up with Dario, who friends had recommended that I call about a spelunking excursion. For 250 pesos each, we got equipment, a 4-hour tour and an "esnack," which I think is amazing. From Dario's house, we headed past a landscape of tropical green hillsides and down to the entrance of a cave. We climbed through the narrow walls, slithered "Matrix"-style along rocks and cannonballed into icy, icy waters. It was an impressive amount of fun, especially since all the other caves I've been to before are grandiose mammoths where well-lit paved paths with handrails invite families to gaze at stalactites. At the end, we each enjoyed a Negrito (or, "little black person"), essentially a Twinkie stuffed with chocolate filling, exactly the kind of snack you'd expect to be handed after an outdoorsy, athletic adventure, right?

Next, we cleaned up at Dario's house. I had brought a small hand towel on the trip just in case, so I used it to wipe the mud off my legs. Then, I realized I was wearing a bathing suit, so I could just rinse off my entire body! Then, I realized that the towel I had been planning to use was streaked with mud, so I had to air dry for a bit and wipe off with my soggy clothes. Sexy. For lunch, more micheladas at a seafood restaurant, and then a later afternoon departure for DF.
All in all, the perfect way to spend my last sweet drop of freedom.

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